CityView Magazine

Ask a Knoxville Native where they'd take an out of town guest for an impressive lunch and they’ll likely say “The Orangery.” Let’s rephrase that, after all we are in Tennessee— and it isn’t a sticky-finger BBQ joint.

The Orangery is the epitome of good taste and stylish elegance. Perfect for the ladies-who-lunch set, a quiet setting where a young man might ask for a pretty girl’s hand in marriage, or a business meeting over fine fare (cocktails optional). The Orangery, celebrating its 37th year of service to the greater Knoxville area, seems a bit unassuming at the outset, located among rows of strip malls along Kingston Pike. But upon closer inspection the solitary building at 5412 Kingston Pike, is beautifully landscaped and somehow protected from any guilt by association; there is a definite air of sophistication.

Step inside and at once the warmth of southern charm and gentility embraces and disarms every guest. The interior, with its polished flooring and elegant décor feels formal, but the atmosphere is comfortable and easy. A welcoming spirit pervades, allowing one to relax and enjoy terrific food in a stress-free environment.

The recipe for this culinary sanctuary was created and developed by owner/operator Karen Kendrick whose innate sense of style and graciousness make The Orangery truly unique. Karen has had a hand in this family-run business since her father, Kristopher Kendrick, opened The Orangery in July of 1971. Taking over operational duties in the late ‘70s, Karen has since passed the family jewel on to her capable son, Stuart, who now makes all day-to-day management decisions. Yet, Karen’s warmth and hospitality greatly influence all that happens inside the Orangery’s walls. The goal of offering gracious elegance in an unhurried, warm, and inviting atmosphere is her fait accompli.

The Orangery does not aspire to be trendy, but the classic cuisine has evolved to embrace seasonal opportunities that help keep the menu fresh and distinguished. This is achieved through the vision of Executive Chef, Carol Scott, who has presided over the kitchen since December of 2007. Scott endeavors to maintain the European essence of the menu, while showcasing culinary skills not exhibited elsewhere in town. She strives to achieve menu-cohesion while leveraging seasonal, fresh produce to push the culinary envelope in unexpected ways. To accomplish this, Scott leans heavily on two key players, Roy Denman, her work-horse and right-hand man, who is the front runner for sous-chef in her kitchen, and Brent Golding, her creative lead-line cook.

Scott’s generous spirit echoes that of Kendrick’s, so the match seems well-suited. She is gentle and self-effacing, but clearly has strong opinions in the kitchen. Her execution has dramatically positive results. Diners are treated like personal guests, and treated to delectable fare. I sampled an exquisite three-course meal that began with pan-seared sea scallops, prepared as a playful twist on the BLT. The dish had a faint smoky aroma and was accompanied by balsamic tomato jam, sautéed arugula, bacon and a red onion and caper aeoli. The scallop had a kiss of seasoning and was perfectly tender. The tomato jam blended well with the arugula and bacon, making for an excellent balance of sweet and salty. Indeed, this combination was so pleasant it almost rendered the aioli superfluous.

Next up, a tender bib lettuce salad served with dried apricot, radish and a blood orange vinaigrette. The greens were garden fresh, well chilled and crisp, but the orange vinaigrette fell short of producing the sour vinegar “pop” that would have been the perfect foil for the sweetness of the apricot.

The third course did not disappoint; a parmesan-crusted New Zealand rack of lamb with potato artichoke mash, sautéed spinach and roasted shallot demi-glaze was terrific. The lamb wore a salty crust of parmesan and pine nuts; this, and the rich demi-glaze, catapulted the flavor of the meat into the stratosphere. The understated sautéed spinach balanced out the medley of flavors, while the ubiquitous potato mash provided an unexpected twist with the addition of fresh artichoke. Pan seared sea-bass was served on a ginger spatzle stir fry. The fish was perfectly prepared, full of flavor and very tender. This dish also showcased some fine knife skills, with a colorful snow pea ceviche. The ginger spatzle came on a bit sweet after the fourth or fifth bite, but this was easily off-set by a dash of salt.

For dessert, The Orangery’s signature white chocolate cheesecake and a warm chocolate cake. The cheesecake was adorned with a caramelized “O” and tart raspberries and cherries added an unexpected zing transforming a respectable dessert into an extraordinary one. The warm chocolate cake was equally successful. In the shape of a top hat, it’s magic was unfurled with a molten hazelnut center. Vanilla bean ice cream topped with toasted hazelnut, chocolate bark and créme anglaise completed the dish.

The Orangery is a thoroughly delightful dining experience. The attention to gracious guest service and an obvious love of food,  both traditional and unconventional, elevate this restaurant to a level that no other restaurant in Knoxville can match. It is hospitality, executed with skillful expertise and wonderful fare, that makes it a treat to dine here.

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