Seasonal Suds

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Beer.
For those of us enamored with the product, the mere word can have us emulating Homer Simpson with a heartfelt “um!”. Anytime of the year we can be convinced to quaff a cold one. Even before my several years of homebrewing, I enjoyed such variety in beer as I was chanced to experience. My education in homebrewing only served to strengthen and refine my love for this, the true nectar of the Gods.

This time of the year has been special to beer connoisseurs for longer than our nation has existed. It may have been due to the things that became possible with the onset of cooler weather. Or possibly it was to fortify oneself against the coming cold. Whatever the reason(s), fall/winter beers are typically “heavier”, or have a greater specific gravity than spring/summer focused beverages. While I certainly enjoy a few standards, I look forward to the fresh varieties the individual seasons offer. In this economic climate, a lot of these beers may be thought of as inexpensive exotica, a vacation for the taste buds.

I know that many of you are reluctant to spend your hard-earned on beers you may not like and/or you have grown accustomed to your standard “lite” beer. To help you out, I have selflessly thrown myself into the zymurlogical line of fire. (Zymurgy is the branch of chemistry concerned with fermentation.) I have done the testing locally and some field research as well, so that you will have some information to assist you on your seasonal beer journey.

Beer festivals or Brewer’s Jams, whichever they are called, are an excellent and cost efficient way to familiarize yourself with a wide variety of beers. The annual Brewgrass Festival in Ashville, NC is a great example which enabled me to sample quite a few of the brews available locally and regionally. I also was able to sample some from local outlets that have employees who are especially knowledgeable about their product and very willing to help you with your selection of seasonal product for you to sample in their intended climate.

I will list here, in no significant order, a representative sampling of that which I particularly enjoyed. Visit us online for an expanded review. There will be more beers mentioned and greater detail. Trust me, it is worth the keyboard/mouse effort.

Framboise Lambic
Traditional Belgian beer
Taste: Intense raspberry, very full flavored. Hop character is not very noticeable.
Analysis: Great beer! This is not a “session beer”. One or two is all you are going to have. The intense raspberry flavor and sweetness makes it pair well with semi-sweet chocolate desserts but the carbonation makes it able to stand on it’s own as a Champagne substitute. I typically recommend this beer to folks who say they don’t like beer because it is so different from what most folk think of as beer. You will need a bottle opener and a corkscrew to open it but, man is it worth it! Leaf & Ale in the Cedar Springs shopping center has several flavors of lambic among the 275 craft-brewed beers they carry.

Pumpkin Ales
American Craft brew
Taste: Varies from brand to brand from subtle hints of pumpkin to pumpkin-pie like combination of gourd and spices.
Analysis: I had several of these at the Brewgrass Festival and locally. All were good, drinkable beers and were generally a step up from what I tasted a few years ago. The offering from Big Boss Brewing Co of Raleigh, NC was best suited to my preference for boldness and mouth feel. Locally, the Dogfishhead Punk from Downtown Wines & Spirits scratched that itch. If a lighter touch on the palate is desired, Shipyard Pumpkinhead from Leaf & Ale is worth a try. The light sweetness of this style will pair nicely with a spicy informal food, chili or perhaps a sausage and jalapeno pizza.

Oktoberfest Beers
German Märzen style
Taste: Mild hop profile, full bodied with a hint of the additional alcohol it carries.
Analysis: This style predates refrigeration and was typically the last brew before the necessary break for warmer weather. It is very open to interpretation but as with all beers that were not to be drunk immediately, it had more alcohol to stabilize it for storage. That also leads to it being fuller bodied than beers expected to be consumed in warmer weather. Olde Hickory Brewery of Hickory, NC produced the one at Brewgrass that I went back to. Samuel Adams, available at Leaf & Ale, also satisfies. I would happily have this beer with German style sausages and sides.

Autumn Seasonal/Harvest Ale
American Craft brew
Taste: Varies
Analysis: This is a difficult one to pin down, as there isn’t really a style standard. The basic philosophy is to make use of the freshly harvested grain and hops to brew a beer that contains hints of the coming cold while celebrating the harvest. It should be more flavorful and robust than the summer offerings but should not overwhelm you. I tried our own Smokey Mountain Brewery’s Harvest Ale. There was just a hint of spice as though it was teasing with characteristics of the pumpkin and the Oktoberfest styles. Since you’re in the SMB anyway, I’d suggest going ahead and pairing this one with an order of their ribs.

Porter

English Ale
Taste: Complex maltiness, mild hop profile with subtle undertones of chocolate and/or coffee.
Analysis: Porters are typically dark in color but not especially heavy beers. They are heavier than the summery fare but can still be considered a “session” beer. The killer one from Brewgrass was the Highland Brewing Co., Asheville, NC, Big Butte Smoked Porter. It is kind of a combination beer as it recalls the German rauchbier as well as the English porter, it was completely delicious. The smoke was tastefully done so that it enhanced the beer rather than overpowered it. Traditionally, porters are kind of a red meat beer, something to have with a working man’s meal. I recommend having at least your first one of these as a standalone. It’s that good. I must also point out that you need not worry about freshness with a beer this complex. Cellar a few and when you do something good, give yourself a treat. I’m not sure you can find this locally but if you are near Asheville, it is worth a side trip.

Stout
English Ale/Russian Ale
Taste: Overwhelmingly malty. The nature of the roasted malts will define the beer.
Analysis: It is difficult to use enough hops in a proper stout to produce a pronounced hop taste. Malt will carry the day. Typically these beers pour black and creamy for a narrow audience. I have to mention two standouts. The Pisgah Brewing Company of Black Mountain NC, (a brewpub and the only place you can get their beer) was pouring their Valdez Coffee Stout. Go. Get. One. It is the best coffee and the best beer all in one glass. Seriously, a dedicated trip to have this beer is entirely justifiable. The Stone Brewing’s Russian Imperial Stout, available at Downtown Wine & Spirits, delivers as expected. Black, heavy, malty with a noticeable but gentle alcohol bite, a beer to pour into a snifter and enjoy by the fire after dinner, with a cigar if you must.

Mead
Ancient Intoxicant
Taste: Traditional is very sweet but dry variants are available.
Analysis: While not defined as beer, local company Shady Grove Meadery produces several variations of their mead that work well as holiday beverage. From the high alcohol content and very sweet Pineapple Mead to the Wildflower and Clover which are closer to wine in character, to their dry sparkling offering(s), these are beverages in search of a celebration. Luckily, minor celebrations will work just fine. Try the traditional sweet variants with a salty and/or spicy appetizers. The dry sparkling mead is easily substituted for Champagne. Go to the meadery (directions available online) near Norris Dam and taste all of them.

There are many, many more beers than mentioned here that are worth finding and trying. Parties dedicated to sampling beers can be a blast as well as educational. Let’s face it, you are going to party this season anyway. Designate a driver and go find a selection. While I have mentioned food pairings I suggest, your palate may differ. Don’t be afraid to stretch and make a mistake.

PHOTOGRAPHY : : JIMMY CHIARELLA