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FOOD
On Waters Edge - Emma’s at Choto Marina in Farragut
BY NICK CHRISTOPHER
One gets a sense that Emma may be embarking on a life of privilege. She is two and a half years old and already has a restaurant named in her honor. The shoulders providing her transportation belong to Knoxville restaurateur, Gregg White, and his latest endeavor is the opening of Emma’s at Choto Marina in Farragut.
White opened Nama on Gay Street in July of 2004, riding the cutting edge of Knoxville’s downtown revitalization. The diminutive sushi joint has become a hot spot for enjoying fine sushi and wine in a hip urban setting. In May of 2006, GWE Restaurants (Gregg White Experience) opened La Costa at Market Square and, in August of 2007, the company added to its stable Eos, a catering and special events company.
Emma’s will be a departure from the stylish, urban ambience of Nama and La Costa, but will continue to carry the torch of GWE’s signature service. White describes this as a guest-first focus restaurant with the singular aim of making people happy and keeping them that way. Emma’s waterside location helps to accomplish this goal. The casual marina setting, spectacular view of Fort Loudon Lake, and the palatial mansions littering its banks invite one to sit back and just breathe, letting the day’s troubles fade away. Outside, three levels of deck seating take full advantage of the surrounding natural beauty; sliding-glass doors and copious windows allow inside diners to soak up the view, as well. A small dock at the base of the property lets boaters tie off and traverse a walkway up to the restaurant. When this fills up, plans are to ferry guests from a neighboring dock site as a courtesy.
Holly Hambright is GWE Restaurants’ Corporate Chef and has developed Emma’s menu with an eye for bright flavors in a range of applications from steaks and poultry to seafood. Hambright’s goal is to execute a few things very well, so her trim menu will offer five to six well-crafted items in each category along with seasonal dishes.
First served was the appetizer. Knoxville Kneeswaz is a black-eyed pea
salad with corn relish, green onions, Sweetwater Valley cheddar, grape tomatoes, potato salad and choice of grilled shrimp, chicken or steak. This lively dish would be an excellent light meal and was dynamically plated on a diagonal, allowing one to taste each flavor separately.
Another standout was the grilled breast of chicken, served on a bed of rice and grains with mango-pineapple salsa and honey-teriyaki glaze. The strips of white chicken were wonderfully tender, and the bright citrus salsa had delightful spikes of jalapeño heat. This dish encompasses Hambright’s personality and style: quiet and unassuming. The thoughtfully presented dish is long on flavor and full of hidden taste surprises.
The favorite of the night was, hands-down, the smoked salmon Caesar salad, made with feta cheese, kalamata olives, grape tomatoes and marinated artichoke hearts. The mix of olives and artichokes partnered with creamy mild feta and salmon juxtaposed excellently, and was tied together with a light Caesar dressing accented with citrus and vinegar.
Other dishes served were the seared halibut steak with white bean ragout and sweet pea coulis, grilled flat iron steak with lyonnaise potatoes, steamed asparagus and a mushroom-shallot compote. This dish , too, was artistically plated and had a pleasant, smoky beef flavor.
The setting is ideal.
The food presented looked beautiful and tasted great. White says, “Emma’s will open late April, early May,” but is unsure of an exact date. The goal of GWE’s service is admirable, and all involved, from Gregg White and Holly Hambright to General Manager Mary Lawrence, speak the same language of giving guests what they want in a casual atmosphere at affordable prices. |
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