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WINE TRIP
Terroir Africa: A Sense of Place
BY BY: MIKE NELSON, WITH MELINA TAYLOR
After South Africa’s overthrow of Apartheid,
the country opened itself up to the world, beginning with free elections in the 90’s. And with that came a lift of embargoes and the resulting new trade. The rugby World Cup came to town, tourism boomed and wine began to flow. My wife and I knew we could not pass up the chance to tour some of the greatest vineyards in the world.
We began our tasty journey through Africa, just outside of Cape Town. There were dozens of wineries that we wanted to explore; unfortunately, we couldn’t stop at all of them. I wanted to escape the commercialism that plagues many vineyards in the West, so we kept heading due east until we reached Robertson Valley.
Here, a large cooperative of 43 farms grows grapes to make wine for South Africa’s fourth largest winery, Robertson. Compared to the industrial refineries of Napa, which can cover up to 20 acres, the winery is small, taking up two city blocks. Francois Weich, one of the winemakers, showed us around the facility and we walked among its many tanks and fermentors.
His wines range from inexpensive to the high twenties for their limited 30-barrel production of super premium Constitution Road Shiraz. All are skillfully produced and show the great character of the soils in this part of the world. Most South Africans drink white wines and, judging by the hot temperatures, one can see why. Only 40% of the production is red wine, most of which is exported.
We left Weich and headed through Robertson to the west side of town to visit the Bon Cap Winery. I wanted to see how organic grapes are grown. Here, owner Michelle du Preez guided us through her collection of vineyards, showing us what was different about the soils, including how they are rich in fertility without the added fertilizers and sprays. Her motto: “If you maintain a healthy vine, you grow healthy grapes.”
She controls everything on the farm and not one task gets completed without her stamp of approval. She admits to not being a fan of the term organic, which has flooded the mainstream. She feels her grape growing technique is a way of life, and not the latest “trend.”
Du Preez’s husband, Roelf, is a passionate seventh-generation farmer. He loves his vines, and you can find him among his grapes each and every day. As part of the organic growing process, he uses a technique called green harvesting, which removes excess grapes before they ripen, allowing more energy to flow into those grapes which are designated for harvesting. The organic process gives the wines earthy tones, making them truly delicious. He believes that quantity must be sacrificed for quality, and you can taste the love and care in every wonderful sip.
We were sad to leave the beautiful vineyard, but we knew the Cape still had many secrets to be uncovered. While bird watching one morning, we stumbled upon a small town called Tulbagh. This peaceful and picturesque town is lined with whitewashed buildings and thatched roofs, local farmers mill about on the streets, and everyone is relaxed. The Tulbagh Mountain Vineyard turned out to be quite a treat. The vineyard’s southern Rhone-influenced style, which consists of blended wine with spice and fruit tones, has recently put them on the map as a grower to be watched.
Rugged, granite mountains provided a majestic backdrop to the narrow dirt road we climbed towards the winery. Winemaker Callie Loew was in the cellar working when we arrived. He’s a young man, but passionate about sustainable farming practices. He showed us around the vineyard and shared the techniques he uses to maintain the sustainability of the land.
We ate dinner with him and his lovely wife, Marie, on their back porch, enjoying a glass of chenin blanc and watching the sun settle in the distance. The orange glow illuminated the cliff face before us with a fantastic luminescence I hadn’t seen anywhere else.
From Tulbagh, we drove southwest towards the home of the wine lands, Paarl and Stellenbosch. The villages are surrounded by famous wineries. Located at the foot of the Franschhoek Valley, between the towns, is a vineyard smaller than others in the area. Cape Chamonix was established in 1991, but the grounds were producing fruit long before then.
A young winemaker named Gottfreid Mocke met us at the tasting room. Judging by his shorts and t-shirt, you wouldn’t think this man was of great acclaim. However, his laidback attitude disguises his Winemaker of the Year status awarded in 2006 for the vineyard’s Chardonnay Reserve 2005. He showed us around the small winery, beaming with pride and explaining to us the processes and innovations he uses that make his wine the best in South Africa. We were even able to visit the wine library, which contains vintages dating back to the first wines produced on the farm.
During the tour, we were able to dip our glasses into giant wooden barrels of chardonnay and pinot noir, two makes Mocke particularly adores. While we were visiting, we had the privilege of tasting a new wine Mocke is developing. Proceeds of the wine will be donated to charity to help build schools and buy books for children. We also spent time admiring the rows of sparkling wine he produces, and we were able to taste some of his refreshing and fruity sauvignon blancs. Out of the cabernet sauvignon grape, Mocke makes a delicious bordeaux blend that leaves a lasting impression.
We took away from our visit a number of great experiences. The hospitality of the people made us feel welcomed. Both the pride in their wines and in their country are evident with their openness and generosity. When you taste delicious wines in such a majestic setting, you can’t help but mirror their attitudes. For a wine lover, this is a place not to be missed. |
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