Page 60 - Cityview Jan-Feb 2017

58 JANUARY FEBRUARY 2017Northern Italy FlavorsMarket SquareEmilia Italian combines house-made pa a and a me ow vibe.316 Market Square, Knoxville 865-313-2472 Emiliaknox.comLeaving the buskers andother activity of Market Square andopening the glass doors of Emilia Italian, you enter a mellow atmosphere that feels as if it has been transported from a small town in northern Italy. Chef Matt Gallaher, also of Knox Mason, set out to create a menu of simple, seasonal cuisine inspired by the Emilia-Romanga region of northern Italy. All the pastas and bread are made in-house daily. Whenever possible, the ingredients are locally sourced.Subdued lighting provided bymilk glass and rustic inverted metal basket xtures create an intimate vibe. The interior of painted distressed brick walls, wooden ceiling beams, and widely spaced tables provide a quiet interior space allowing private conversation. A long wooden-backed bench lines one wall and a wide, generous bar lines the other. Whenyou see the old-style white deli cabinet topped with huge cans of Castelvetrano olives and storing giant wheels of Peccarino Romano and Reggiano Parmesan cheeses, you know you’ve come to a place that is serious about great ingredients and good cooking. Wide-plank wooden tables and sturdy refectory chairs send the message that, here, it’s all about the food.The wait sta is well informed about the details of Chef Matt’s o eringsand energetic about Emilia’s locavore mission. In the tradition of intimate Italian restaurants, when faced with impossible decisions in pickingamong delicious choices, consider saying, “Surprise me.” You won’t be disappointed. The trick is moderation: any two selections below (not counting a dessert) make for a perfect meal.Chef Matt displays unexpected taste combinations in an unpretentiousfashion, appropriate to the overallvibe. Three house wines—a white from Sicily, a rose from France, and a red from Tuscany—are available in large carafes for $26. The red, with a hint of e ervescence and served slightly chilled, goes especially well with the menu.Antipasti starters include warm Castelvetrano olives with Calabrian chile, garlic and thyme ($5); a fabulous grilled romaine salad, with Parmigiano- Reggiano, oil-cured olive and herbed bread crumbs in a Caesar dressing; and steamed Price Edward Island Mussels with fennel, garlic, white wine, and grilled house-made bread ($13).On the Contorni (veggies and salads) list, don’t miss the warm house-made focaccia bread served with a whipped combination of Cruze Farm ricotta, Georgia olive oil, aky sea salt and fresh cracked pepper ($5) and theCONTINUED ON PAGE 159EatDINING OUTTHE CITYVIEW RATINGAmbiance: Service: Food: Presentation: Price:21.5Total: (out of 25)The Cityview Rating reflects the totals of the ve categories: Ambiance, Service, Food, Presentation, and Price. (25: Out of this World; 20 to 25: Excellent; 15 to 20: Very Good; 10 to 15: So-So;5 to 10: Not Recommended; 0 to 5: Don’t Eat Here)Review by N. Brooks Clark Photograph by Nathan Sparks